When a silk worm extrudes the silk protein, the aspartic acid is only in the L-form, but over time it transforms into the D-form.
A Turkish silk tapestry from the late s. The Smithsonian researchers measured the ratio of the D- and L-forms in a range of silk samples that date back as far as years ago, when silk was first used as a textile. Older silk samples have more of the D-form, and the scientists have figured out a simple mathematical formula that delivers the age of the silk from the ratio.
As an aside, measuring the D- to L- ratio has been helpful for decades in dating a huge range of objects, from ancient ostrich eggs to the bones of human ancestors. And speaking of humans, when doctors take a close look at eye cataracts, low and behold, the aggregates covering the eye lens have a high ratio of D-aspartic acid , which has converted from the L-aspartic acid that is normally found in healthy, young eyes. But back to silk. Although L- to D- dating has been around a long time, the new technique is impressive for the small sample it consumes.
Other museums researchers that I contacted for my news story on the topic were enthusiastic about the technique.
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The neckline and back shoulders have stitched casings and drawstrings to provide some fit to the otherwiseunshaped garment.
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Dating Silk With Some Fluffy (But Good) Science
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New technique for dating silk developed by Smithsonian conservation team
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